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Pasta Salad Sheds Some Carbs for Summer

A FORGIVING DISH, pasta salad. Chances are, you have the makings of a respectable one in the fridge right now, ready to be thrown together without undue contrivance.

Forgiving is not the word I’d apply to the Italian approach to pasta. Years ago, while watching me prepare a seafood risotto, a Milanese friend was appalled at the abundance of shrimp, clams and calamari I enthusiastically included. She insisted that, when made correctly, her country’s rice and pasta dishes were all about the starch; any other ingredient…

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